Looking at this as a solution to play around with. The Pi2AES that is. I’m a complete Pi noob, what’s the consensus on OS I should go with? I’m technical with PC and networking backgrounds but honestly I just would rather things to work than spend time manually configuring.
Just to make sure I’m on the same page. I need the Pi2AES, a Pi 4, a case and a 24V power supply and preferably a 5v power supply for the Pi itself.
Que mas? Any kind of thermal issues need addressing? Heat sink kit or anything along those lines?
RopieeeXL is typically the easiest. Pretty much flash and go. Though the only thing i’d say: Make sure you connect the network BEFORE turning on the pi. Otherwise it gets a bit fussy on first boot.
Dietpi is also good but a bit more involved. I’d say go ropieeeXL unless you have a reason not to.
For power, the ideal solution is actually to use a single 5v PSU to power both. You can bypass the onboard 24v->5v switcher by connecting to the pins directly as shown in the pic below.
This seems like the cleanest route. Wonder why the Pi2AES folks wouldn’t go with a solution like this right from the start. Already have a 5V Linear PS handy so, this settles it. Thanks.
Apparently its so that a single 24v PSU can power the pi, pi2aes, and the addon DAC board they make.
I agree though, given how 24v PSU’s are pretty hard to come by it would have been nice if there was at least the option of buying a 5v version. Much of the pi2aes’ target market is people seeking for every little improvement to their chain. And so having to use workarounds to use a LPS is a bit frustrating.
That being said, the pi2aes is exceptional regardless, but I do wish this was changed
This is the closest thread I can ask this question in… shot in the dark but might as well. Can anyone interpret the following Sotm Ultra Neo label? I got the easy parts. It’s a NEO, with the conversion to 12v, US plug. But does the rest of the label indicate that this one has the cap upgrade and the Silver cabling? No idea what the eABS means.
For audiophiles who are looking for the best sound quality with their sMS-200ultra, the sMS-200ultra Crux Audio Special Edition further upgrades this fantastic network player with the addition of eABS-200 EMI absorber sheet (eliminating EMI noise), replacing internal wires with 7N-UPOCC silver or copper wires, and upgrading existing capacitors with EVOX capacitors.
The sMS-200ultra Crux Audio Special Edition already includes the sCLK-EX clock — the heart of this superior digital audio equipment. This new combination brings dramatic sound improvement.
It’s actually pretty straight forward. This guide covers just about everything you’re going to need and I’ll help you with the rest.
I dove head first into the bridge idea and getting all music endpoints out of the PC. I picked up this SOtM but apparently I got lucky, the seller didn’t know it was a special edition, neither did I until I just caught the details on the label. Should have it tomorrow. I’m keeping the Pi2AES for my desktop and this for my 2 channel stereo.
Hi @M0N , sorry for digging out an old post but can I ask a couple of questions regarding this part of the chain (is it still called transport?) now that I have almost built the rest? I generally find your advice really helpful and thank you so much in advance.
Is Pi2AES a better option than, say, other Pi-based streamers such as the Allo Digi+ or DDC such as Singxer SU2/SU6? For one it’s probably cheaper (only with Meanwell PSU).
Regarding better power supply of Pi2AES, is it possible to, say, get an SBooster 24V or equivalent and split it into two, one for the Pi2AES and one for RNHP? (Trying to save a socket and a bit of the cost here)
Lastly, at the moment I am just using a MacBook (and I use some streaming services such as Qobuz but mostly ALAC files in iTunes ripped from CDs and I don’t have a strong need for hi-res tbh) with USB, will a solution like Pi2AES or a DDC make a noticeable sonic improvement?
Most of the sonic benefits from the Pi2AES will come from it being a network bridge where you can get off of USB. A DDC on the other hand may be a better solution if your plan is to get music out of a PC via USB. BTW since you mention having the BF2. The Unisom USB is pretty good, but it’s still bettered by the BNC or AES output from the Pi2AES into my Yggdrasil.
I stumbled upon your review of Chord M Scaler vs HQPlayer recently, and I have been learning a lot from your other reviews on other DACs / audio equipment so far!
A few questions for you…
Would you be sharing your steps in building the Pi2AES (hardware & software) some time soon?
Regarding the RPi4, did you find USB 2.0 or 3.0 to be better (noise, jitter) when feeding a DAC? If the DAC matters, I’m interested in how it works with my Chord Mojo from Moode right now, as for future DACs I plan on exploring the I2S route.
Take a look at this picture, it’s pretty much all you have to do. I glued that adapter from the inside when I built mine so there are no external wires. It works very well and one LPS powers everything. The board is clearly labeled as well so it’s hard to screw things up.
Ugh I don’t remember the exact pins but there’s a pin jumper change you make on the Pi2AES board and it stops 5V going to Pi board. Then you can use the 5V power directly to Pi board. Do a search on SBAF and you should find the details.
This image shows it a little more clearly. There is a 5v pin and gnd pin which you can directly connect a 5v psu to in order to bypass the onboard switcher and power the pi2aes (and pi) with 5v direct. This allows you to use something like an ifi ipower or LPS.
In this image white is 5v and black is gnd
Easiest way is to get some male to female jumper leads and a DC barrel adapter. Plus PSU of your choice. This way there’s no soldering or ‘diy’ stuff needed. literally just plug it together and you’re good.
Kinda have to buy the bigger packs of both but they’re super cheap anyway. Will cost ~$15 for both
Once that’s done, decide if you’re going to power the pi separately or with your 5v PSU. If powering both, I’d strongly recommend getting one that is at least 2a. If you only have a 1a psu like the topping p50 then you probably want to power them separately.
If you’d like to power them separately, remove the jumper circled in this image.
If you’d like to power both from one PSU, leave it on.
Lastly, for the OS I personally would recommend RopieeeXL ( RoPieee | XL ). Supports roon, DNLA/UPNP, spotify connect, airplay, HQPlayer and just about anything you could need.
In Ropiee (or your chosen OS), enable SSH, connect, and edit the config.txt ( sudo nano /boot/config.txt by default ) and add the following to the file:
This will underclock the pi and reduce power consumption, to ensure you don’t end up with any psu issues which I’ve found sometimes happens on some 2a/2.5a psus.
