šŸ”¶ Vokyl Erupts

Disclaimer: This is only for using aftermarket cables with the Hifiman pinout. Tip=signal, sleeve=ground. The cables provided by Vokyl work just fine.

For the cable issue, it seems easier to fix the headphones than to find a cable that is compatible. Itā€™s very easy to fix, just desolder from number 3 and solder on number 2.

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Can you please send this to the vokyl team via email [email protected]. I shouldnā€™t have to do the job I payed them to do in the first place.

I can just get confirmation that someone has tried a dual stereo with it yet? Grimmer used two stereo cables and it worked, why wouldnā€™t a single cable work?

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Well, in all fairness they didnā€™t promise a specific pinout. They chose a terrible pinout but itā€™s compatible with their cable. The only issue is with aftermarket cables, doing the mod I propose will make the headphones work with Hifiman cables that are way more common, but will make the original cables useless. To me, given that I already have a bunch of 2.5mm cables, seems reasonable to mod the headphones to be compatible with my other cables. People that donā€™t want an aftermarket cable doesnā€™t need to do any change. And also you can buy a custom cable from many cable vendors, but it will only be compatible with the Erupts as it seems to be a very uncommon pinout.

You would expect them to use the same pin out that is on every other headphone with 2.5mm or 3.5mm connectors. What kind of cable would you need for them to work stock? One that skips the continuity on the first ring? As Jeffrey said, why does using 2 separate stereo cables like grimmer did work, but one dual stereo cable somehow fail? Did you try a dual stereo connector on them before you modded it?

The wiring of the Erupts cable is interestingā€¦

One interesting thing is that both 2.5mm are connected to both channels, the cup is the one that takes the channel it needs. You can plug the cable reversed and still have the channels correct.

What the mod I propose does is to change the right cup from taking the signal from the ring to take it from the tip (like the left cup).

You can get a custom made cable that works properly, but I think changing the pinout of the cup to the same used by others is a better idea.

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Ah, thank you. That clears up alot. Although, a stereo cable will take the signal from both tip and first ring, so doesnā€™t that satisfy both cups connection (one needing the tip, the other needing the ring) anyway?

Yes, but you need two, one for each cup. You could use a splitter or something. Certainly there are multiple ways of dealing with it.

I looked around at the other threads on this issue and it seems RandomStrata has already tried that (not the one he did with the mono connector) and failed to get sound out of one of the cups. You can confirm that your mod allows them to function with any dual cable you have? Also, to get to the driver do you only have to take screws out?

I had a migraine yesterday and I didnā€™t do the mod, Iā€™ll do it today. To take the driver out you just need to use a 1/16" hex bit and remove the screws. Thereā€™s a false screw next to the connector, that one is glued to a nut and you donā€™t need to remove it. I can take some pictures later today, and report the results.

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Disclaimer: Iā€™m not responsible if you broke your headphones, and if you successfully do this mod the cables that came with the headphones become useless.

Finally, got the mod done.
This is after I moved the cable from pin3 to pin2:


This one is the part that holds the driver seen from a side, the back side is plastic, and thereā€™s metal around the driver, it looks like a crashed aluminum soda can.

This is an aerial picture of the driver, you can see the screw that is glued to a nut.

This is the filling inside the cup, be careful when closing to avoid it threading with the screws.

Some foam behind the filling.

And the cup without the screws.

Overall it was a very easy mod, I used some solder wick to de-solder it, very easy to do. Now I can use the cables I already had.

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Do you have balanced cables you can test with them?

Yes, Iā€™m using a 4.4mm cable that I bought from https://corpsecable.com/ for my Audioquest Nighthawk.

Would love to hear your thoughts on how much they benefit from going balanced even though I probably will be anyways :slight_smile:

I donā€™t feel thereā€™s much difference between balanced and single ended. But as far as I recall they sound better with the new cable, but considering that I cannot A/B them it might be pure bias.

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Damn, now Iā€™m curious to see what happens if you remove the wool. Maybe then we could get the mythical z sample. Also, does the board clip onto anything to hold it in place? Thanks for all your help with this.

The small pcb is held by two screws. Same 1/16ā€ hex bit.

Did removing the filling help make them sound any better?

I removed the filling only for the picture, in case someone was curious. I reassembled it the same way it originally was, only mod was the pinout.

Vokyl Team:

Cables that do not follow the pinout shown in the below linked PDF will not work with the Erupt. The following TRRS, CTIA configuration is compatible and the best way to ensure the correct functionality. The Erupt absolutely had to be designed with this standard to avoid mic interference and user error. Standard mono jacks will not work with The Erupt, as using a mono jack will result in shorting out the audio in the right cup. You can check out our PDF diagram here.
**
I have looked for such a cable and every one I find only has a single end connection, not a dual end.
I think weā€™re kind of screwed here and are going to have to Mod these ourselves like Elira did.

Looks like they designed these for console gaming and not for PC gaming or for any of the audio enthusiasts who would pay the premium for a headset such as this.