Damn, thatâs probably close to a watt of power. It will be its sound pressure level being lower than the 58x. Itâs frustrating companies wonât provide measurements for that, as the ohm specification is almost meaningless for how hard it is to drive.
I wouldnât say impedance ratings are meaningless, but yes I agree that they donât tell you the whole story
The only real thing it tell you is how compatible it is with the impedance of your source. Low impedance headphones and especially iemâs can be massively affected by high impedance sources. In terms of how much voltage it needs, it really is quite senseless to use it a gauge. Look at the adx5000 for example, its 420ohm, yet is far easier to run than the 50ohm t50rp.
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Yes, that can be pretty useful. The sensitivity is a better way to get an idea of the difficulty of driving a headphone, but impedance can also be used to determine how hard it is to drive as well if itâs small or large enough. Some amps may have a pretty hard time driving a planar with an under 16 ohm load for example
Based on the specs, the Vokyls should be easier to drive, but they arenât. The 58x are easier to drive, not by much, but easier nonetheless.
I had to bend the shit out of mine, but now the clamp force is fine.
Disclaimer: This is only for using aftermarket cables with the Hifiman pinout. Tip=signal, sleeve=ground. The cables provided by Vokyl work just fine.
For the cable issue, it seems easier to fix the headphones than to find a cable that is compatible. Itâs very easy to fix, just desolder from number 3 and solder on number 2.
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Can you please send this to the vokyl team via email [email protected]. I shouldnât have to do the job I payed them to do in the first place.
I can just get confirmation that someone has tried a dual stereo with it yet? Grimmer used two stereo cables and it worked, why wouldnât a single cable work?
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Well, in all fairness they didnât promise a specific pinout. They chose a terrible pinout but itâs compatible with their cable. The only issue is with aftermarket cables, doing the mod I propose will make the headphones work with Hifiman cables that are way more common, but will make the original cables useless. To me, given that I already have a bunch of 2.5mm cables, seems reasonable to mod the headphones to be compatible with my other cables. People that donât want an aftermarket cable doesnât need to do any change. And also you can buy a custom cable from many cable vendors, but it will only be compatible with the Erupts as it seems to be a very uncommon pinout.
You would expect them to use the same pin out that is on every other headphone with 2.5mm or 3.5mm connectors. What kind of cable would you need for them to work stock? One that skips the continuity on the first ring? As Jeffrey said, why does using 2 separate stereo cables like grimmer did work, but one dual stereo cable somehow fail? Did you try a dual stereo connector on them before you modded it?
The wiring of the Erupts cable is interestingâŠ
One interesting thing is that both 2.5mm are connected to both channels, the cup is the one that takes the channel it needs. You can plug the cable reversed and still have the channels correct.
What the mod I propose does is to change the right cup from taking the signal from the ring to take it from the tip (like the left cup).
You can get a custom made cable that works properly, but I think changing the pinout of the cup to the same used by others is a better idea.
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Ah, thank you. That clears up alot. Although, a stereo cable will take the signal from both tip and first ring, so doesnât that satisfy both cups connection (one needing the tip, the other needing the ring) anyway?
Yes, but you need two, one for each cup. You could use a splitter or something. Certainly there are multiple ways of dealing with it.
I looked around at the other threads on this issue and it seems RandomStrata has already tried that (not the one he did with the mono connector) and failed to get sound out of one of the cups. You can confirm that your mod allows them to function with any dual cable you have? Also, to get to the driver do you only have to take screws out?
I had a migraine yesterday and I didnât do the mod, Iâll do it today. To take the driver out you just need to use a 1/16" hex bit and remove the screws. Thereâs a false screw next to the connector, that one is glued to a nut and you donât need to remove it. I can take some pictures later today, and report the results.
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Disclaimer: Iâm not responsible if you broke your headphones, and if you successfully do this mod the cables that came with the headphones become useless.
Finally, got the mod done.
This is after I moved the cable from pin3 to pin2:
This one is the part that holds the driver seen from a side, the back side is plastic, and thereâs metal around the driver, it looks like a crashed aluminum soda can.
This is an aerial picture of the driver, you can see the screw that is glued to a nut.
This is the filling inside the cup, be careful when closing to avoid it threading with the screws.
Some foam behind the filling.
And the cup without the screws.
Overall it was a very easy mod, I used some solder wick to de-solder it, very easy to do. Now I can use the cables I already had.
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Do you have balanced cables you can test with them?
Yes, Iâm using a 4.4mm cable that I bought from https://corpsecable.com/ for my Audioquest Nighthawk.
Would love to hear your thoughts on how much they benefit from going balanced even though I probably will be anyways 