This is the one Zeos has been using I believe, seems pretty nice. it donāt think it locks thoā¦
So, Iāll just get a JDS Labs Atom soon.
If I use it here it will be ādouble-ampingā (AVR Headphone out ā Atom ā Headphones). But mostly, I just found out my audio interface has a āline outā, bypassing the volume control at the front. So, Iāll use the Atom knob to control the volume of my headphones (obviously), and the audio interface knob to control the volume of my speakers (line out = unchanged). And the Atom will surely stay there. And itās more or less 1 watt of power, so itās more than enough.
(Yay, I thought Iād need a ton of crap like 1 or 2 Mackie Big Knobs, or pricey amps with line outs, etc. ā nope. A 99$ Atom!)
Sorry, thatās a bit off-topic. So, hum, hey, a 99$ JDS Labs Atom is approximately 1 watt @ 50 ohms so can power T50RPs properly!
But can it??? Only 1 watt???
Jokes aside itās a great amp that will benefit your other headphones too
Lol, only Zeos needs 50 watts for headphones.
I use 50ish watts into 50 ohms for my he6se. I donāt think I can go back
The basx I think is only like 8 watts into 50ohms or something like that
Edit: I say only 8 watts lol
(Emotiva BasX A-100)
- Power Output (headphone output; normal mode):
8 Ohms: 60 mW / channel
33 Ohms: 200 mW / channel
47 Ohms: 250 mW / channel
150 Ohms: 430 mW / channel
300 Ohms: 440 mW / channel
600 Ohms: 350 mW / channel - Power Output (headphone output; direct drive mode)
(requires internal jumper; USE WITH CAUTION):
8 Ohms: 50 watts / channel
33 Ohms: 12 watts / channel
47 Ohms: 8.5 watts / channel
150 Ohms: 2.6 watts / channel
300 Ohms: 1.3 watts / channel
600 Ohms: 0.6 watts / channel
(And this is the JDS Labs Atom)
- Max Output @ 600Ī© 125mW (8.68 VRMS)
- Max Output @ 150Ī© 502 mW (8.66 VRMS)
- Max Output @ 32Ī© 1 Watt (5.66 VRMS)
One quick word of caution here, I love my Atom. I prefer itās honesty and cleanliness on almost every can/iem Iāve tried. But for my Dekoni Blues the Magni 3 is the better amp, IMO. They sound good with the Atom, no doubt, but the Blues just have an overall cleaner, more controlled sound on the Magniā¦it sounds āfasterā. The Magni has about twice the power output of the Atom (obviously about the only ābetterā measurement compared to Atom). Something to think about if the t50rp is going to be your daily driver. But if you use it as a change up, the Atom is superior on just about everything else Iāve heard.
The more power the t50 can get the better (for the most part) lol
I found my stock T50RPs to be already really dynamic, even when not properly powered. Maybe the Schiit ācompressionā helps, for people who find T50RPs (with or without mods) too dynamic.
I had the Mayflower V.1 mods for a long time and loved them, but with me losing interest in my M1060, I send them in to be converted to Argon MK.III, canāt wait. Surprisingly the only real place I could notice the voltage requirements was on my DarkVoice, my O2 seemed to power them the same as my HD650, but to get good sound out of my DV I had to crank them. Iām getting a 789 and am looking forward to testing out the Argon on them, compared to my HD650 and HD4xx.
How are using ādynamicā? Does that refer to the sound/music definition of difference between loud and quiet? Or is it that T50ās are planars that sound like dynamic driver headphones?
The ādynamicsā of the sound - in this case meaning difference between loud and quiet - arenāt the problem I noticed when the Blues are underpowered. When I was experimenting with them, powering them with a Fiio K3 - good sounding little amp, but not a powerful one - the biggest issue was the sound was muddy and sloppy, particularly in the bass and mid-bass, and lacking in instrument separation. The Atom got significantly more out them, but the Magni gave them their clearest, āeasiestā sound. The Atom definitely improved the overall sound, decreasing the muddy/sloppiness and increasing instrument separation, but still maintaining some of those sonic flaws when compared to the Magni.
I asked the question about your meaning of ādynamicā because my hypothesis is that the power-hungriness comes from the fact that their small-ish planar drivers end up adopting some impedance properties similar to that of dynamic drivers. Namely, in comparison with larger planars their impedance is much less even across the frequency range, causing them to behave more like how a dynamic driverās impedance changes with frequency. Adding more amplifier power means adding more current which means more force to control the driver. Once the driver is more controlled, the sound is cleaner.
And maybe thatās a bunch more than 20 characters saying the same thing you just did? But I agree with your assessment that they are good sounding cans - once you get them properly powered.
Oh, I see! I thought the only thing that would differ was the ādifference between loud and quietā, yes. Interestingā¦
A good amp can offer better speed and control, and therefore enhance other aspects. It can also even out the frequency response by providing adequate power to all ranges.
Sorry, I was talking about the difference between the Magni and the Atom.
I know amps add way more than, well, volume.
Annnd JDS Labs Atom ordered and shipped. Finally ordered it today.
No, I donāt want the 50 watt emotiva.
(I wanted something small and simple).
Well holy shit, hereās the cheapest way to get rid of the 4-to-8khz plateau.
1st: Do this.
2nd: Shure 840 pads.
Seriously. Thatās it, thatās all. No need to mess with toilet paper or whatever.
So, you get better sub-bass with thisā¦ āmodā (I donāt even think I dare to call this a modā¦ but huh, thatās a modification). Which adds much-needed warmth to thisā¦ Japanese mech / cold precision machine.
You also get to hear the mids, finally. Because the plateau isnāt there anymore, stealing the show.
You still get clarity with this modification, I mean hell, dare I say twice the detail?! Because you finally hear the mids, and the plateau is not entirely gone, thereās still a 9-10khz peak.
And I swear just doing this stupid thing adds soundstage and air to T50RPs.
If youāre more into the 100hz āknockā, which may be what people call planar (kick) slam, you may not want to do this. This makes T50RPs more neutral, harman neutral in the sub-bass region. But some will see this as added muddiness, changing ākicksā into āboomsā. But youāll hear the bassist in Metallicaās Kill em All.
Anyway, try it, itās free, and seriously, itās like having brand new headphones for free. Itās a BIG change!
Edit: This makes theseā¦ āU-shapedā. You get muddy sub-bass (100hz and lower) and sibilance (10khz range peak). So, unless you only listen to music at low volume, donāt do this.
What did u do exactly? I dont have a t50rp so Iām not sure what was changed lol
I literally just took the foam and turned it 45 degrees, āhidingā the four corners of the planar driver. And just this thing got rid of the 4-to-8khz plateau (high frequencies), because T50RPs are far from neutral, even with Shure 840 pads (yes, I said they were studio-ready a few weeks ago in this damn thread. I changed my mind apparentlyā¦ perfectionism ā Iām also treble-sensitive and got tired of the treble boostā¦ I thought the JDS Labs Atom would fix all my problems, but it did not).
Iām waiting for someone to tell me itās the worst idea ever (itās my first ever mod), and talks about distortion etcā¦ but my ears could finally enjoy musicā¦ for a few hours. Because this makes theseā¦ āU-shapedā. You get muddy sub-bass (100hz and lower) and sibilance (10khz range peak). So, unless you only listen to music at low volume, donāt do this.
Edit: Itās a 4-to-8khz plateau to my earsā¦ Sorry. In many graphs itās aā¦ huhā¦ 4khz-to-12khz mountain peaking at 10khz.
And nowā¦ I cut the foam a bit.
-Hiding, like, 3 millimeters from the top and rear of the driver, gets rid of the 4khz-to-8khz plateau, so theyāre more neutral (Harman neutral) now. Thatās my goal.
-Cutting the foam at the front also adds āfrontā soundstage, I think!
-Cutting the foam at the bottom definitely gets rid of the muddiness. Even at dangerous, dangerous volumes. Planar bass/kick slam is back.
(And yeah, I also have HD58Xs. Thatās what I used for comparison ā I love these.)
This just makes my T50RP perfect for me.
(Right driver)
Thatās all folks!