šŸ”¶ Fostex T50rp

This is the one Zeos has been using I believe, seems pretty nice. it donā€™t think it locks thoā€¦

So, Iā€™ll just get a JDS Labs Atom soon. :slight_smile:
If I use it here it will be ā€œdouble-ampingā€ (AVR Headphone out ā†’ Atom ā†’ Headphones). But mostly, I just found out my audio interface has a ā€œline outā€, bypassing the volume control at the front. So, Iā€™ll use the Atom knob to control the volume of my headphones (obviously), and the audio interface knob to control the volume of my speakers (line out = unchanged). And the Atom will surely stay there. And itā€™s more or less 1 watt of power, so itā€™s more than enough.

(Yay, I thought Iā€™d need a ton of crap like 1 or 2 Mackie Big Knobs, or pricey amps with line outs, etc. ā€“ nope. A 99$ Atom!)

Sorry, thatā€™s a bit off-topic. So, hum, hey, a 99$ JDS Labs Atom is approximately 1 watt @ 50 ohms so can power T50RPs properly!

But can it??? Only 1 watt???

Jokes aside itā€™s a great amp that will benefit your other headphones too :+1:

Lol, only Zeos needs 50 watts for headphones. :stuck_out_tongue:

I use 50ish watts into 50 ohms for my he6se. I donā€™t think I can go back

The basx I think is only like 8 watts into 50ohms or something like that

Edit: I say only 8 watts lol

(Emotiva BasX A-100)

  • Power Output (headphone output; normal mode):
    8 Ohms: 60 mW / channel
    33 Ohms: 200 mW / channel
    47 Ohms: 250 mW / channel
    150 Ohms: 430 mW / channel
    300 Ohms: 440 mW / channel
    600 Ohms: 350 mW / channel
  • Power Output (headphone output; direct drive mode)
    (requires internal jumper; USE WITH CAUTION):
    8 Ohms: 50 watts / channel
    33 Ohms: 12 watts / channel
    47 Ohms: 8.5 watts / channel
    150 Ohms: 2.6 watts / channel
    300 Ohms: 1.3 watts / channel
    600 Ohms: 0.6 watts / channel

(And this is the JDS Labs Atom)

  • Max Output @ 600Ī© 125mW (8.68 VRMS)
  • Max Output @ 150Ī© 502 mW (8.66 VRMS)
  • Max Output @ 32Ī© 1 Watt (5.66 VRMS)

One quick word of caution here, I love my Atom. I prefer itā€™s honesty and cleanliness on almost every can/iem Iā€™ve tried. But for my Dekoni Blues the Magni 3 is the better amp, IMO. They sound good with the Atom, no doubt, but the Blues just have an overall cleaner, more controlled sound on the Magniā€¦it sounds ā€œfasterā€. The Magni has about twice the power output of the Atom (obviously about the only ā€˜betterā€™ measurement compared to Atom). Something to think about if the t50rp is going to be your daily driver. But if you use it as a change up, the Atom is superior on just about everything else Iā€™ve heard.

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The more power the t50 can get the better (for the most part) lol

I found my stock T50RPs to be already really dynamic, even when not properly powered. Maybe the Schiit ā€œcompressionā€ helps, for people who find T50RPs (with or without mods) too dynamic.

I had the Mayflower V.1 mods for a long time and loved them, but with me losing interest in my M1060, I send them in to be converted to Argon MK.III, canā€™t wait. Surprisingly the only real place I could notice the voltage requirements was on my DarkVoice, my O2 seemed to power them the same as my HD650, but to get good sound out of my DV I had to crank them. Iā€™m getting a 789 and am looking forward to testing out the Argon on them, compared to my HD650 and HD4xx.

How are using ā€œdynamicā€? Does that refer to the sound/music definition of difference between loud and quiet? Or is it that T50ā€™s are planars that sound like dynamic driver headphones?

The ā€˜dynamicsā€™ of the sound - in this case meaning difference between loud and quiet - arenā€™t the problem I noticed when the Blues are underpowered. When I was experimenting with them, powering them with a Fiio K3 - good sounding little amp, but not a powerful one - the biggest issue was the sound was muddy and sloppy, particularly in the bass and mid-bass, and lacking in instrument separation. The Atom got significantly more out them, but the Magni gave them their clearest, ā€˜easiestā€™ sound. The Atom definitely improved the overall sound, decreasing the muddy/sloppiness and increasing instrument separation, but still maintaining some of those sonic flaws when compared to the Magni.

I asked the question about your meaning of ā€œdynamicā€ because my hypothesis is that the power-hungriness comes from the fact that their small-ish planar drivers end up adopting some impedance properties similar to that of dynamic drivers. Namely, in comparison with larger planars their impedance is much less even across the frequency range, causing them to behave more like how a dynamic driverā€™s impedance changes with frequency. Adding more amplifier power means adding more current which means more force to control the driver. Once the driver is more controlled, the sound is cleaner.

And maybe thatā€™s a bunch more than 20 characters saying the same thing you just did? But I agree with your assessment that they are good sounding cans - once you get them properly powered.

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Oh, I see! I thought the only thing that would differ was the ā€œdifference between loud and quietā€, yes. Interestingā€¦

A good amp can offer better speed and control, and therefore enhance other aspects. It can also even out the frequency response by providing adequate power to all ranges.

Sorry, I was talking about the difference between the Magni and the Atom. :slight_smile:

I know amps add way more than, well, volume.

Annnd JDS Labs Atom ordered and shipped. Finally ordered it today. :+1:

No, I donā€™t want the 50 watt emotiva. :stuck_out_tongue:
(I wanted something small and simple).

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Well holy shit, hereā€™s the cheapest way to get rid of the 4-to-8khz plateau.

1st: Do this.
2nd: Shure 840 pads.

Seriously. Thatā€™s it, thatā€™s all. No need to mess with toilet paper or whatever.

So, you get better sub-bass with thisā€¦ ā€œmodā€ (I donā€™t even think I dare to call this a modā€¦ but huh, thatā€™s a modification). Which adds much-needed warmth to thisā€¦ Japanese mech / cold precision machine.
You also get to hear the mids, finally. Because the plateau isnā€™t there anymore, stealing the show.
You still get clarity with this modification, I mean hell, dare I say twice the detail?! Because you finally hear the mids, and the plateau is not entirely gone, thereā€™s still a 9-10khz peak.
And I swear just doing this stupid thing adds soundstage and air to T50RPs.

If youā€™re more into the 100hz ā€œknockā€, which may be what people call planar (kick) slam, you may not want to do this. This makes T50RPs more neutral, harman neutral in the sub-bass region. But some will see this as added muddiness, changing ā€œkicksā€ into ā€œboomsā€. But youā€™ll hear the bassist in Metallicaā€™s Kill em All. :wink:

Anyway, try it, itā€™s free, and seriously, itā€™s like having brand new headphones for free. Itā€™s a BIG change!

Edit: This makes theseā€¦ ā€œU-shapedā€. You get muddy sub-bass (100hz and lower) and sibilance (10khz range peak). So, unless you only listen to music at low volume, donā€™t do this.

What did u do exactly? I dont have a t50rp so Iā€™m not sure what was changed lol

I literally just took the foam and turned it 45 degrees, ā€œhidingā€ the four corners of the planar driver. And just this thing got rid of the 4-to-8khz plateau (high frequencies), because T50RPs are far from neutral, even with Shure 840 pads (yes, I said they were studio-ready a few weeks ago in this damn thread. I changed my mind apparentlyā€¦ perfectionism ā€“ Iā€™m also treble-sensitive and got tired of the treble boostā€¦ I thought the JDS Labs Atom would fix all my problems, but it did not).

Iā€™m waiting for someone to tell me itā€™s the worst idea ever (itā€™s my first ever mod), and talks about distortion etcā€¦ but my ears could finally enjoy musicā€¦ for a few hours. Because this makes theseā€¦ ā€œU-shapedā€. You get muddy sub-bass (100hz and lower) and sibilance (10khz range peak). So, unless you only listen to music at low volume, donā€™t do this.

Edit: Itā€™s a 4-to-8khz plateau to my earsā€¦ Sorry. In many graphs itā€™s aā€¦ huhā€¦ 4khz-to-12khz mountain peaking at 10khz.

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And nowā€¦ I cut the foam a bit.

-Hiding, like, 3 millimeters from the top and rear of the driver, gets rid of the 4khz-to-8khz plateau, so theyā€™re more neutral (Harman neutral) now. Thatā€™s my goal.
-Cutting the foam at the front also adds ā€œfrontā€ soundstage, I think!
-Cutting the foam at the bottom definitely gets rid of the muddiness. Even at dangerous, dangerous volumes. Planar bass/kick slam is back.

(And yeah, I also have HD58Xs. Thatā€™s what I used for comparison ā€“ I love these.)

This just makes my T50RP perfect for me. :heart:

(Right driver)

Thatā€™s all folks! :grinning: